Burns Night

The 25th January is not only Australia Day eve, but it also happens to be Robert Burns' birthday. 

Robert Burns is a very famous Scottish poet, and his poems written in the Scots dialect are damn near unreadable.  Wiki has this to say:

" Robert Burns (25 January 1759 – 21 July 1796) was a Scottish poet and lyricist. He is widely regarded as the national poet of Scotland and is celebrated worldwide. He is the best known of the poets who have written in the Scots language, although much of his writing is also in English and a light Scots dialect, accessible to an audience beyond Scotland "

Here is a snipit of his poem 'Address to a Haggis": 

But mark the Rustic, haggis fed,
The trembling earth resounds his tread.
Clap in his wallie nieve a blade,
He'll mak it whistle;
An' legs an' arms, an' heads will sned,
Like taps o' thristle.

So on the 25th of January, Scotland (and funnily enough New Zealand too) celebrate Burns Night.  Burns Night is all about eating haggis (after a bagpiper serenades it, naturally), men giving a 'Toast to the Lassies' (a funny speech saying how great us women are and then trying to be funny) and then the 'Reply to the Toast to the Lassies' given by the women (which of course is generally funnier and puts the boot into the men more than a little), and then drinking and singing and a little hand holding (everyone holds hands and sings...this was the most off-putting part of the evening for us).  

The local community hall down the road held the supper, with volunteers making all the food and organising the speakers, musicians, raffle etc.  The speaker made a point of singling us out at the start of the night as tourists and had everyone give us a little clap.  We felt so spethal.  But was a great night; we met the only other Aussie in the room who lives up the hill from our hotel, and I had a lovely chat to a Welsh photographer.  As we left to walk home, everyone was offering us a lift.  'No no, this is the first time we have been outside in weeks!".  "Stupid Aussies" I'm sure is what they were all thinking.

The weather was mercifully off getting pished that night, so there was no wind and the night sky was clear.  The stars revealed themselves and the Northern Lights made an appearance...it was awesome!  We weren't expecting to see the Lights, so we were walking along at midnight in the dark using our phones for lighting (as there are no street lights or anything and we were basically in the middle of a paddock), and behind a big hill was all this glowing stuff.  'What's that? There isn't a big settlement behind the hill...where is all that light coming from?' We asked each other stupidly.  "I think it's the Northern Lights..."  "Nah...no way"  "Yeah, no I think it is.."

So we stood in the dark watching it for about 15 mins while we tried to decide what exactly it was.  The Lights were kind of fluid, moving around and becoming lighter and darker...yep, definitely the Northern Lights.  Of course I kept thinking of that Simpsons episode where Skinner sets his kitchen on fire with Superintendent Chalmers. You know the one:

Superintendant Chalmers: Good Lord, what is happening in there? 
Principal Skinner: The Aurora Borealis? 
Superintendant Chalmers: The Aurora Borealis? At this time of year? At this time of day? In this part of the country? Localized entirely within your kitchen? 
Principal Skinner: Yes. 
Superintendant Chalmers: May I see it? 
Principal Skinner: No. 

We rushed back to tell anyone we could find still awake at the hotel as everyone has been waiting months and months to get a glimpse of the Lights...but we couldn't find anyone.  True story.



Shetland: A land of wind swept ponies & tree-nude hills

 

We arrived in Lerwick (Shetland's capital) at 7:30 am on Monday morning from our overnight ferry crossing from Aberdeen.  

We had fairly smooth sailing from Aberdeen to Orkney, but from then on it was quite rough...bins scooting across aisles, cutlery thrown off tables rough.  We took lots of motion sickness medication, and had a big supply of salty and sweet snacks to munch on throughout the journey which seemed to help.  When it got really rough, around 11:30 pm, we lay down and tried to sleep.  Lying down seems to help with sea sickness and luckily neither of us got nauseous or sick at all.

When we got off the ferry it was dark and pouring rain.  Our hostel wasn't open to check into for another 1.5 hours, so we loitered around the ferry terminal for a hour or so, napping and generally acting hobo-ish.  The rain didn't let up, but at least the sky lightened somewhat.  We ventured out and found our hostel (which was pretty easy considering there were big signs up pointing to it as it's the only hostel on the mainland).  When we arrived we were soaking wet and suffering vertigo from being rocked at sea for so long, so we had a tactical nap which helped set the earth straight once more.

We ventured out the next day and saw the town, which was small but quaint.  It's a very sea-side sort of town, with lots of container ships and fish & chip shops.  We had the best coffee in months at a little coffee shop which also had fast free wi-fi.  This was without a doubt the most exciting part of our day, as the internet at the hostel was worse than dial-up and blocked almost everything that wasn't email, Facebook or the news.

Yesterday we begun our journey up to our next Helpx host, The Baltasound Hotel on the island of Unst, pronounced Un (like Onion) -st.  The Shetland Islands are made up of a bunch of islands, but I think of it in terms of 3 in the middle, and then there are bits off to the sides.  In the middle, starting from the bottom, you have Mainland (yes, astoundingly imaginative isn't it?) then Yell, then Unst.  Our Host is on Unst.  So to get between the islands you have to get a bus over land, then a ferry.  Getting from Lerwick on Mainland to Baltasound on Unst involved 3 buses and 2 ferries.  So that was fun.

Our hosts have generously given us today to chillax and become acquainted with the hotel and the island.  We decided to go for a walk to the nearest shop, which turned from a windy stroll to an epic struggle for survival.  It is often windy here, but it quickly turned horizontally gale-force and was also full of rain that felt like someone was throwing hand fulls of pebbles at your face.  I had to hang onto Isaac to prevent tumbling over fences and into Shetland ponies, which I have been assured by a reliable source are carnivorous and very dangerous. 

The landscape here is like nothing else we have seen in Scotland so far.  I wouldn't call it bleak...but it's...kinda bleak.  There are no trees, which Google tells me is due to the sheep.  There are little settlements and houses just sort of dotted around the place in no particular fashion, and there are low dry stone walls criss-crossing everywhere.  We can see the sea from our room which splashes up over the roads when it's windy (read often/always).  There are about 600 people living on Unst, and apparently they keep themselves occupied by gossiping about everyone else (probably particularly the foreigners..we might start doing some extra weird things just to keep them amused).  It mightn't sound very nice after that description, but there is actually a lot to like.  It's a no-frills landscape, free of distraction that allows you to sit and contemplate life, the universe and everything.  It also really makes you feel away from home and on a rock in the middle of the ocean.

Also if we ever need anything from the shop again, we are just going to suffer in our jocks.

On the road again...

We are on the road again today after just over 2 months at Teasses Estate.  We have landed in Aberdeen, and tomorrow we are catching the ferry to Lerwick, Shetland Islands.  The ferry is a pleasant 14.5 hour journey... if my last ferry ride is anything to go by, I'll more than likely vomit myself to death before we arrive.  

We have a couple of nights in Lerwick to recover from said purging, and then we start with our new helpx host on Wednesday.  We will be working at The Baltasound Hotel, doing...we don't know, for how long...we don't know that either.

We have loved our time at Teasses..it's been the perfect escape from the world.  Zero stress work, made enjoyable by the fresh air, red robins that follow you everywhere (because gardeners usually = worms), and the humor of the great people that we've been working with.  It wouldn't have been the same without Ian & Tegan, and Jordan..well he's just so adorable that we wanted to pack him up and take him with us.  Living with him has been like having a drunk puppy!  We've managed to unwind and de-stress from our lives back home, so now it's time to move on...for now.  It was the perfect place to start our adventure, and we can't thank Terry enough for inviting us to stay all those months ago.

Terry is one of those people who are so unique that you never forget them.  He's even expanded our vocabulary! We now get 'pished' until we are totally 'steamboated'.  Oh and I guess he taught us some things about plants n stuff... 

We will go back to Teasses before we leave Scotland, maybe to work, maybe just to see the gardens in a different season (when everything isn't brown and mushy).  It's true what they say about travelling, it's largely the people and not the place that determines whether you have a good time or not.  And we've had a great time :) 

Farewell Potting Shed Peeps, we'll never look at a garden bed or pile of leaves the same way again (ever!).


Hogmanay!

Happy Hogmanay/New Years!!

Insert long winded reflection on 2013 here:

2013 was awesome, so much crazy stuff happened and ceased to happen.  Let me explain (humor me):

You know when you were in your late teens, and you started making a list as to how your 20's were going to go?  At least, most girls do…I think..anyway, the point is that my list has always been this, in this order:

  1. Get a degree
  2. Go travelling
  3. Get a career
  4. Buy a house
  5. Get married at 25.

The planets aligned quite tidily behind me for a few years because my list was completed on schedule; I even managed to acquire an Isaac to complete numbers 2, 4 & 5 with.  Everything was documented, ticked off, stamped, hole-punched and filed alphabetically by age 25.  I did a nerdy internal fist-pump then tore up the list.  It was like an assignment I’d handed in.  I’d worked hard on it, got it in on time and got good marks.  So that’s that, time to enjoy the situation that I’d worked so hard on putting myself into. 

We got back from our honeymoon.  My bosses had let my work pile up on my desk while I’d been away.  We bought a car (MoMo, our fabulous little red 1990 Mazda MX5) and got on with our lives.  Receive pay packet, hand it to the mortgage, receive pay packet, hand it to the mortgage, receive pay packet, hand it to the mortgage… and so forth on a fortnightly basis for 4 years.  The excitement in each day came from playing the ‘will I get to leave work before its dark today?’ game.  Pay packet, mortgage, pay packet, mortgage, pay packet, mortgage, pay packet, mortgage…..wait wait wait hold on hold on hold on.  We are turning 30 next year.  THIRTY.  Are we going to spend our 30’s like this too?  I’m feeling postal already!

I had a plan for my 20’s.  I never thought about our 30’s.  Perhaps my downfall was not sitting and doing another list after my first one became obsolete.  I didn't do one because I didn't know what to put on it.  I still don’t. Kids, more work, some investments I suppose.  But… do I want kids? I never have before, plus we couldn't afford a house big enough for them nor the time off work to care for them.  I was already working more than an overworked person does, so I couldn't work any harder. 

Had I been paying attention, buying the classic midlife crisis car (MoMo) would have alerted me to the fact that my life compass had become balls-deep in magnets the moment everything was ticked off my list.

Perhaps making the list in the first place was a mistake?

We were still happy…but happy in the way that a homeless person is happy to receive a hot drink.  Happy but not happy.

So what to do?  Drink of course.  And so we did, exuberantly (which was awesome, thanks Dan!).

INTERMISSION!! Congratulations, you've earned a break from this excessively long blog post!  Watch a song!  Yippee!!  (We saw Newton Faulker play this song live last year, it helped our lets-run-away-juices flow)

So there we were: it was mid June and we were on the couch after a few too many sherbets on a Sunday afternoon to quell the pain of the coming work day, and I thought to myself, ‘Man...remember Scotland?  Fark that was great..imagine if we could work there!  I’m gonna Google it right now!’.  Helpx came up in my Google search along with images of secluded isles, snow topped mountains and beautiful sunsets over a foreign ocean.  I looked a bit more into Helpx and our finances, and started running outlandish options through my head like ‘we could rent out our unit, or we could sell it, or we could just go on a short holiday, or we could go balls out and try and get jobs and buy a house in Scotland and live in the highlands and have a hairy coo as pet and we can call him Nibbles!’. 

We considered the idea of doing Helpx to be just a bit of a fancy for a couple of weeks…we wouldn't sell our property, that’s a stupid financial decision.  I couldn't leave my job, what would they do without me?  Pure whimsy.  Pure, unadulterated whimsy.  Seductive whimsy…the kind of whimsy that doesn't leave your mind for longer than 11.7 seconds at a time.  Within a matter of a couple of weeks, we made a date to have one of those ‘serious’ talks.  We went for breakfast before work at our local cafe. 

“So…do you want to run away to Scotland?”

“Um…yeah...I kinda really want to’

“Yeah…I want to too”.  Nervous laugh.  Gulp. 

Everything fell into place and we committed to the cause completely.  The universe was on our side; our unit sold after being listed for 2 days, MoMo sold the day we left, and we gave all but our most prized possessions to charity and friends (sorry people who ended up with shit loads of our shit!).  I learned that the best financial decisions aren’t necessarily the best decisions. 

We’ve no jobs and no home.  We just welcomed in 2014 in a little pub with a bunch of people who were saying ‘Aye’ and ‘Lassy’ a lot. 

2013, woah.

2014….we are quivering with anticipation.


Happy Hobo Christmas!!

It’s Christmas eve and we find ourselves in Edinburgh, lounging in our hostel bar in between a Christmas tree and a pool table.  Funky laid back blues music fills the air, and we sit content after making full use of the complimentary breakfast (I’ve had 5 mugs of tea, 4 bits of toast and a bowl of cereal with fruit & yogurt… you don’t know where your next meal is coming from when you are a back packer, gotta take it where you can get it sometimes!).  

It’s our first Christmas away from family, however we have not been deprived of celebrations.  We have our home at Teasses decorated with lights, tinsel and a tree all from Pound Land (it’s a shop where everything is 1 pound, not a gay bar), we were generously invited to the Teasses staff Xmas party which was great, and we had a home cooked Christmas feast on Friday which comprised of roast duck, a game casserole with partridge and pheasant (all killed on the estate, and prepared by trusty Jordan), a lamb roast with all the trimmings, and plenty of booze including Isaac’s annual 5 liters of Eggnog (it was only about two thank you, and it all got drunk - Ize). 

We are now in Edinburgh for actual Christmas and it is covered in lights and Christmas trees, and has a Christmas market which seems to have 5 stalls repeated about 30 times.  There is an ice skating rink, a ferris wheel, and lots of outdoor bars serving hot cider, mulled wine, and hot apple toddies (Drambuie, warm apple juice, lemon juice and cinnamon.  Very delicious, warming, and expensive. 

There is no snow, but lots of wind, which, like, is just as cold and in your face really.  We had a little snow a couple of nights ago, but the ground was too wet for it to stick.  It’s so strange having a cold Christmas, but it’s great, it feels like a ski resort.

Our housemates and fellow helpxers, Ian & Tegan, have left Bankhead and headed home to Liverpool for Christmas.  They will be sorely missed by us, Jordan & the gardeners.  They have made our stay really fun, can’t thank them enough. 

We will be having our third Christmas feast tomorrow as our hostel is having a Christmas lunch, where anyone can join in if you bring a plate or cook something.  We are too poor for presents this year, which is good, because we have no one buy them for nor are we receiving any, nor do we have room to carry them anyway.  So we will skype home tomorrow morning and wish our families a happy sweaty boozy xmas, then proceed to drink & be merry with the family-less population here at the hostel. 

Happy hobo Christmas everyone!!

xxoo