uk

Glasgow

 

We spent 3 nights in Glasgow on our way home, and loved it.  As soon as we stepped off the train we were greeted by tall buildings, loads of concrete, and that wonderful scent…dirt!  City dirt: pollution, litter, burger grease, vomit... you know what I mean.  We have missed all these wonderful things so much since we’ve been trapped in the country and forced to breathe fresh air and frolic amongst the green hills.  In the city there are no ticks or midges, but instead shops and a bagillion cafes and restaurants.

We loved Glasgow.  They were in the throws of preparing the city for the Commonwealth Games when we left.  The mascot…well…it’s as stupid as the Scottish uniform for the games.  Which is a real shame.  It could have been a Haggis.

Anyway, while we were there we visited the Necropolis (which we called the Necrop-pop-pop-olis), GOMA, The Lighthouse museum, saw the Police Boxes (which were very disappointing – covered in graffiti and full of empty boxes) and had a number of showers.  Our bathroom had a squeezy bottle in it labelled ‘All purpose cleanser – hand wash, body wash, shampoo’.  My hairdresser was horrified.

The scenery on the train ride from Arisaig to Glasgow was sex on legs.

Scottish Mist

Remember that episode of The Simpsons where there is a flu epidemic, and the flu germs travel around in visible clouds and attack people?  That is just what Scottish Mist is like, except the germs are midges, and they don’t just bite you and move on.  They surround you and stuff themselves into every pore of skin you have whether it’s covered by clothing or not, and suck your blood.  Over, and over, and over, and over again.  The only way to describe them is ‘little F*CKING bastards!!’

There are repellents you can buy which can be effective when you are going for a short stroll and there aren’t many midges around.  However on a day when it’s wind-less and damp, the air is visibly thick with them and no amount of poison will keep from thirsting for your blood.

We’ve both spent a few days in the garden this week getting the place tidied up for an ‘open garden’ day for charity.  The day went really well and the gardens looked smashing, but let it be known that it was at the cost of blood.  Our blood. And lots of it. 

Pictures will be forthcoming as soon as god consumes an overly greasy god-sized recovery breakfast.

The Harry Potter Train & other bits on the western coast

We are slightly spoilt at our new Helpx – they have a car that we can use!  So on our days off we can get out and do a wee bit of exploring.  Arisaig happens to be about 20 mins from Glenfinnan, which has the Viaduct that is in the Harry Potter movies.  A Viaduct is a big concrete thingy with lots of archways underneath it that the train goes across.

The train is called the Jacobite Train, and costs something ridiculous like $70 each.  I doubt that it is an experience shared by many backpackers…but we were content with our coffee shop vantage point.  Well, you couldn’t actually see it from the coffee shop, but you could see it from behind a big fence at the end of the car park…

Anyway, so yesterday we went to Glenfinnan and admired the Viaduct over coffee before continuing down to Oban.  The drive to Oban was very scenic.  We saw Castle Stalker (it’s in movies n stuff), the Ben Nevis range (Ben Nevis is the highest mountain the UK, and there is a ski field there too), but probably the best things were only about 10 or 15 mins away from where we are living.  We are right on the coast and there are so many beautiful ocean-meets-land nooks that are just stunning.  I wish that we had a good camera (and the know-how to use it) so that we could capture some of this gold to bring back home.

Arisaig House - a land of white sandy beaches and lounging Labradors.

 

We have settled into Helpx No.4 – Arisaig House.  It’s a luxury B&B on the western coast of Scotland just across the ditch from the Isle of Skye.  Since arriving here a week ago, we’ve had nothing but clear blue skies and sunshine.  Seriously, it’s been shorts & singlet weather, and once again I wish I’d brought a pair of damn shorts (you are going to Scotland, you won’t need shorts! I said to myself when we were packing… stupid stupid stupid).  Even the dogs are playing in the ponds and sleeping on the cool gravel rather than the nice soft grass. 

Arisaig House is gorgeous.  It is a big old stone building which has 10 luxury rooms inside the main house and 3 self catering cottages further out on the grounds for people to rent for the week.  And when I say luxury, I mean that guests sleep nestled into a plush king-sized mass of feathers from a billion now-naked birds, they bathe looking out of a large window down onto a field below full of geese and sheep, and they stretch on their own lounge looking out over gardens to the beach which is within walking distance.  We are surrounded by mountains which seems to create a summery micro-climate like we haven’t experienced in Scotland before.  Frankly, it’s too damn hot.  We have a suitcase full of gloves and thermals…where’s the frost!?  But I suppose the vast majority of people here think the weather is just the bees knees and couldn’t be happier.  Weirdos.

An English family own the B&B and work in it themselves which is really nice.  The water is undrinkable as they have a private water system thingy, so we can only drink bottled or boiled water.  Or wine.  Or beer.  Or cider.  Or vodka and soda water, which is drinking plus staying hydrated, not to mention low calorie – winning!

Our work here has been varied and pretty laid back so far.  We do housekeeping in the cottages and inside rooms (cleaning, making beds etc) and also helping with the gardening.  Yesterday Isaac helped make a fire to burn leaf-matter garbage, and today we chopped logs so they can dry over the summer ready for use in the winter.  I got to use a hydraulic log splitter for the first time…it’s the first time I’d heard of such a thing too.  Basically you put a smallish log in it, then press a button and it pushes it onto a sharp edge like an axe head, and keeps pushing it onto it until it splits.  It was fairly tame, but all I could think of was horrifically chopping my fingers off.  Our boss took pity on my coward-ess after lunch and let me clean dishes instead.  It’s kinda funny…I think it’s absolutely outrageous and insulting that a man wouldn’t help in the home because it’s ‘woman’s work’, but when it comes to splitting logs or spraying the wasp nest…. I’m sorry, you want me to help you do what?  What logs? Split what? What what?  Shame on me.  It’s just that I’m a coward you see.  And most ‘man’s work’ isn’t just dirty or unpleasant, women’s work has oodles of that, it’s that it’s dangerous.  Would I rather Isaac loose his fingers?  Of course not.  Do I think he has less of a chance of burying an axe into his shin than I would?  Yes, definitely.  It’s not sexism.  Had Isaac used a log splitter before today either?  No.  But I don’t see how that’s relevant….

We get our own apartment on the property which is awesome, and we don’t even have to share it with anyone!  There are drawbacks to this place too, such as the internet and our lack thereof.  They may be fixing it later on, but for now there is a spot in the kitchen and a spot on the window sill where you can get one bar of slow internet connection.  It’s amazing what you can get used to.  It is a lot harder to procrastinate when you can’t jump onto Pinterest, so I’m trying to take advantage of the situation and do lots of reading, writing, going for walks or runs…oh which reminds me – I impaled my foot on a big rusty bit of metal! 

The sun lured us out in our last week on Skye last week and we went for a walk along the beach.  Walking very slowly, I tripped.  I couldn’t move my leg much and looked down to see a big bendy piece of wire (I guess a little thicker than a coat hanger) stuck through the front of my shoe.  It felt like it had gone a fair way into my shoe which is why it didn’t just fall out when I tried to shake it.  Isaac pulled it out and I took off my shoe expecting to see a sock soaked in blood.  It wasn’t.  But there was a little puncture mark in the ball of my foot just below my toes.  ‘Hmm…I guess I got poked a little’ I thought to myself.  Isaac helped me hobble back to the hostel and we sat down with a cup of tea and a bandaid.  After a while, a line started to swell from the puncture hole down the ball of my foot to where the arch starts.  With a slow creeping horror the realisation struck – ‘Holy snapping duck shit, it went in that far!!’.  Tetanus is for sissies, so I decided I would only go to a doctor if my leg started to show signs of wanting to come away from my torso. 

It’s been a week now and it’s healing well.  My foot puffed up like a not-so-delicious foot soufflé for a couple of days, but that’s all gone now.  It’s just a little tender and my gimp-limp is barely noticeable.

Oh and in other news – I’ve been cooking!  I haven’t made one stir-fry..Mum and Jess would be so proud.  I’ve made a tomato chicken bake, creamy marinated baked chicken, bacon wrapped chicken (there was a chicken special at the food store), hamburger soup, and last night we had roast pork with steamed greens, roast potatoes & onion, and super burnt (oops) crackling. 

We’ve also had a few memorable dates come and go this month:

  • We've been overseas for 6 months.
  • We had our 8 year anniversary together & our 4th wedding anniversary.

So that pretty much wraps up our adventures over the last couple of weeks.  Isaac is going by himself down to Birmingham to a games convention thingy at the end of May.  We will be staying here until we go home in July, so I’ll have lots of opportunities to get oot and aboot once my foot heals completely and explore the woods and beaches.  

Isle of Skye - a land of lumpy hills and magic

 

We have settled into our third Helpx host - the Skye Backpackers in the village of Kyleakin on the Isle of Skye.  The work is pretty easy here; in exchange for 2 hours of cleaning/bed making, we receive free accommodation and breakfast.  It’s a pretty sweet deal.

The Isle of Skye is amazing, we are bursting with love for it.  It’s jam packed with beautiful hills, snow-capped mountains, lochs, faeries, mountainous walking routes, viking history, dinosaur foot prints, standing stones, and even the Tallisker Distillery.  Similar to the other islands that we have been to so far, the public transport is expensive, irregular, and also doesn't service any of the aforementioned places.

Yesterday we were treated to a spontaneous perk of working in a hostel – free island tour!  MacBackpackers (shit-hot tour company that runs bus tours in Scotland) works in partnership with our hostel, so as there were a couple of seats spare on the bus yesterday we got to go along.  We took a MacBackpackers tour back in 2007 and it’s the best tour we’ve ever done by a long long shot; I dare say it’s the reason we wanted to come back so much because we had such a good time.  So as expected, the tour yesterday was just amazing.  Actually it’s probably one of the/the best things we have done since we have been in Scotland.

The great thing about the bus tours are the stories given by the tour guide.  You aren’t just driven from site to site; the whole time you are being told local legends about the area as well as folk tales and historical info about the viking invasions and the old kings and queens.  I’m sure half of it is made up, but that’s not really the point is it?  It’s immensely entertaining.  First off we were taken to a stream that legend says will give you eternal youth if you dunk your face in it for 7 seconds…I was pretty sure this is just something they tell the tourists because it’s good laugh for the guide, but most people actually did it (including Isaac).  Apparently Skye also has the most faerie lore/tales other than Iceland.  We were taken to one of the many Faerie Glen’s, which was really cool and totally whimsical.  It had the same sort of majesty as Glencoe, but on a smaller, more intimate scale.  It was basically an area that was full of these weird conical hills.. .the photos will explain it better, but it was really amazing.  We were warned not to sing as that would encourage the faeries to come and take us away.. faeries are bad here in Scotland by the way.  They are kinda evil and scary..the sort that would pull off Tinkerbelle’s wings and feed them to her.

We were then taken on a ‘hill walk’ (called The Quiraing in Trotternish)…which was really a long hike in the rain through the freakin mountains which we weren’t really dressed properly for.  Not only did it remind us again that we have become very unfit, but I’d say it’s the best thing we have done in the past 6 months.  It was like Mordor..and we were being followed by Orks..or maybe we were the Orcs chasing the Halflings.. so freaking cool!!  The clouds were hanging low throughout the mountains, and our path lead us up into the hills/mountains and around the sides of them right up into the clouds.  Our path was narrow and rocky with valleys and lochs below us, and we could see the sea out in the distance along with the outlines of other islands.  It is such an unspoilt beauty out in the hills on the islands..you can really picture Vikings raiding the lands or Orcs stealing the fat sheep which are sprinkled over every hill and field.  Hobbits would love it here.  But only when the Orcs aren’t around, obviously. 

We are looking at hiring a car with a few of the other Aussies here so we can visit the distillery among other things.  This hostel is overrun with Aussies by the way, the manager is even from Brisbane.

Feast your eyes on these babies: